The Aveyron: France’s Best Kept Secret

By Erin Waks

Most of us have heard of the glittering beaches of the French Riviera, the shining lights and intellectual cafes of Paris, and the lavender fields of Provence. France is not exactly undiscovered territory.

But the word ‘Aveyron’ draws a blank in the British consciousness. This almost untouched region in the South-West of France is a hidden paradise; it has all the charm and allure of other parts of the country, but without the swarms of tourists and overpriced, well, everything. For fans of nature, French cuisine and chocolate-box villages, the Aveyron region is perhaps the most under-rated place to holiday if you wish to venture beyond British shores.

Early in June this year, I donned my best ‘summer in the South of France’ hat and sunglasses, filled with the hopeless optimism that always consumes me when travelling somewhere new. I set off to Belcastel, a tiny village right in the heart of the Aveyron.

Having just finished my degree, I was going to work in a contemporary art gallery housed in a mediaeval chateau. Dream job in hand, I spent the flight pondering everything I knew I wanted to explore in my new countryside surroundings. A self-professed city girl, I was greatly looking forward to discovering country life.

And discover I did.

Instead of the hurried pace and manic energy I so love in my home city of London, I found myself confronted with longer lunch breaks, prettier landscapes, and more time than ever before.

From the moment I arrived at Rodez airport, I was hit by the wave of heat many of us love when we arrive at our holiday destination. I was also shocked to discover that people I didn’t know actually wanted to talk to me. As I sat reading in the village cafe over (another) espresso, waiters, and even the owner came up to me, politely inquiring as to why on earth an English girl like myself would want to come here, to literally the middle of nowhere.

The truthful answer was just that - I wanted to be in the middle of nowhere. I craved the quiet of picnicking by rivers, of drinking coffee anywhere but a noisy Pret in London’s Soho, of reading a book and scribbling away thoughts and ideas without disturbance. The Aveyron provided just that.

Belcastel, a village with fewer than 300 residents, is nestled deep within the Aveyronnaise countryside. It doesn’t even have a supermarket - just two little cafes with an exquisite view over the river. Spending my days hiking unrivalled paths and chatting with locals around the village, I truly felt a sense of home away from home.

But Aveyron’s charm does not end with Belcastel. Home to many of France’s ‘Most Beautiful Villages,’ you can spend weeks on end travelling the region, moving from one postcard-worthy town to another: Figeac, Loubressac, Estaign, Najac. The list goes on.

Conques, though, is a world apart. Best-known as the inspiration for the set of Disney’s 2017 live-action remake of Beauty and the Beast starring Emma Watson, the village is full of the sort of tiny pathways that makes for an afternoon exploring, eating ice cream, and staring blissfully up at the immense cathedral.

Speaking of cathedrals, it is impossible to visit the Aveyron without a stop in Rocamadour. Built into the cliff-face itself, I challenge you to find a more impressive architectural location to spend several hours.

Some things to bear in mind when travelling here? Since the Aveyron is quite remote, you will need to hire a car for ease of transport. This can be easily done from Toulouse or Rodez airport, the main airports serving the area. Fortunately, transport and accommodation costs can be much lower than other southern parts of France, with flights from London Stansted to Rodez starting from as low as £19.99 in the summer months.

Whether you enjoy a lazy meander around a sleep village, a steep hike with breath-taking views or just the sheer perfection that is a lunch consisting of a baguette and a glass of wine, the Aveyron is sure to be the answer to all your holiday needs. Next time you feel that desire for sunshine, croissants, and gorgeous views, book a (one-way?) flight to the Aveyron: you won’t regret it.

Photo credits: Erin Waks

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