Review: Looks Delicious! Exploring Japan’s food replica culture

By Erin Deborah Waks

A plate of plastic oysters, a pile of painted ramen, a slice of synthetic cake and a tray of waxy sushi. Delicious? Or bizarre?

Both, would be my answer. Japan House in Kensington’s latest weird and wonderful exhibition explores the food replica culture that has taken the country by storm. The unique phenomenon, known as sanpuru in Japan, has decorated the front windows and glass cases of the country’s many restaurants since the 20th century and I, intrigued, decided to see it for myself. 

Upstairs, you can browse the beautiful collection of desserts made from wax and plastic and painted to perfection. From more western desserts such as ice cream to more traditional ones including mochi, they really do look like the (literal) cherry on the cake. 

But heading downstairs is where the true colours - and eccentricity - lie. You can learn about the history of the movement, watch the artistic process used to create such unique concoctions, and even make your own (fake) bento box. It’s a cute, fun little display of Japanese culture in a London institution that’s nestled into an otherwise western part of the city. 

I will, however, admit that I found some of the creations a little unsavoury, unappetizing and, occasionally, revolting-looking. I was told some of the replicas would look good enough to eat, but I found the plasticky shine a little off-putting and uncanny.

It is, however, a fun way to learn about something different in a visual manner, a great way to spend half an hour and get an insight into more of Japanese culture. Oh, and, grab a matcha latte on the way out from their authentic cafe bar - you won’t regret it.