Al-Medina al-Qadima

Photo credit @Erin Deborah Waks

By Erin Deborah Waks

To wonder whilst immersed in my surroundings is undoubtedly one of my favourite things to do. The French have a verb for it - flâner - while Moroccans have a noun - souk. 

In English, its nearest equivalent would be ‘market’, yet I’m hesitant to equate a British or European market experience with that which I have discovered here. A haven of sights, sounds and smells, it is equal parts overwhelming and alluring. Chaotic and charming. Erratic and enchanting.

Sure, the tourist hotspot draws in visitors likely to be scammed into paying over double an item’s worth, and I imagine the experience could be violently intense for plenty of shy, awkward Brits. But I find the loud, disorderly environment just adds a challenging new dimension to one of my favourite pastimes: shopping. 

While markets in cities like Marrakesh are known for their harassing vendors, I’ve found Rabat is home to a far more inviting environment. It’s thrown me into the deep end of practising my Arabic, but has provided me with exquisite jewellery, delicious food and luxurious Argan oil. I’ll even admit to purchasing a fake designer handbag - a necessary evil for a fashion-savvy budget traveller as myself.

In Rabat, I’ve found exploring al-Medina al-Qadima, the old city, to be an apt antidote for a variety of emotional ailments. When I found myself teetering on the edge of boredom last week, a total nightmare for my Type-A personality, I jumped in a taxi and sent myself on a meander through the souk. When I felt overwhelmed and stuck in an overthinking spiral, it was sufficiently busy and distracting that I couldn’t help but focus on the external stimuli around me. It got me out of my own head. 

And when I wanted to remember why on earth I came here, the men shouting loudly in Arabic, the piles upon piles of spices, and the meandering pathways, were more than enough of a reminder.