Review: Bubala

By Erin Deborah Waks

I’ve never written a restaurant review before. I’m not what you’d call a ‘foodie’; I don’t go out for dinner that often, am not well versed in knowledge of the best eats in London, and don’t have a subtle taste palette that’s fine-tuned to perfection, able to pick up on the most delicate of flavours and spice combinations.

So that Bubala could make me want to whip out my pen and sing its praises out loud is saying something - something quite clear.

Word of the restaurant reached me a while ago, and having fought to get a reservation at a reasonable hour (their Soho and Spitalfields branches have been booked up most Saturday nights) my friend and I excitedly sipped our drinks at nearby Obica, awaiting our highly coveted 8.30pm slot. 

And worth the wait it was.

With down-to-earth decor, a buzzing atmosphere, the haunt felt small enough to be exclusive but without impeding upon its ability to feel open and airy. Nicely decorated and with an open view of the kitchen, it had an element of the home-cooked.

And, as is often the case with properly good food like this, the simple dishes were perhaps the best. Although perhaps simple isn’t the word - classic, but with a twist that served to heighten the original. The hummus with harissa, apricot and jalapeno oil with light and fluffy pita was, without a doubt, the smoothest, most delicious hummus I’ve ever tasted (and, remember, I’ve visited Israel several times and have a degree in Arabic). 

We also tried the falafel with tahini, amba and sumac onions, a delightful combination of Middle Eastern flavours that, when tasted in one mouthful all together, was to die for. Delivered to our table with their smacked cucumbers with tahini and chilli crunch, which we ordered out of pure intrigue, the two dishes provided a wealth of flavours that, to put it lightly, we devoured in seconds. We lapped it all up with the grilled cauliflower, a nice addition to the set.

What was, however, the absolute highlight, was the oyster mushroom skewer with tamari and coriander seed. Strong and yet perfectly umami, we actually didn’t have many words for it. Possibly one of the best things I have ever put in my mouth - that just about covers it.

Wholesome and yet tastefully (literally) designed, Bubala is an absolute must on the London food scene. Take it from me, even though I’m highly unqualified to advise on such things.